Aftershave

Facial shaving is primarily a men’s ritual that may have unexpected skin benefits. Razors are one of the best ways to physically exfoliate surface skin cells and remove impurities from open blackheads. Conversely, improper shaving obviously can lead to irritation, removal of excessive skin layers, small cuts and pseudofolliculitis, i.e., ingrown hairs. Improperly shaved facial skin may also incur reddening, inflammation, telangiectasia or spider veins, pimples and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Electric shavers induce different skin disequilibrium effects. Their vibrational energy can increase the local skin temperature, damaging small capillary blood vessels and increasing inflammation. In contrast, razor shaving has a more superficial impact, although its peeling action in the presence of alkaline shaving soaps could be too harsh for delicate skin.

For these reasons, consumers often turn to specially formulated shaving creams and aftershaves to maintain healthy skin. Such products could be differentiated based on the type of shaving instrument used, although with either, TEWL values for facial skin increase noticeably. This column will discuss how to approach formulating aftershaves.

In theory, aftershaves are applied to the shaved face to counteract skin irritation induced by shaving. This was especially true and necessary with the razors and electric shavers of the past, which were less refined and harsher on skin. Aftershave also allows those who prefer not to use cologne to wear a slight scent. Since shaving is a normal practice in daily hygiene for most men, it has been used by the cosmetic industry to expand the male grooming market—and today’s aftershaves have transformed into skin care treatments for the male face.